Peak crowding: Droves of hikers clog High Peaks – Times Union
LAKE PLACID — People hoping to get away from it all with an autumn hike in the Adirondack High Peaks were in for some surprises during the busy Columbus Day weekend.
On the way to the Adirondack Loj — a jumping-off point for hikes to Mount Marcy and other well-known peaks above 4,000 feet — there was a blinking sign: “No Parking Available. Seek Alternate Hikes.”
It was being taken more as a suggestion by determined hikers. While last weekend’s crowds were the product of a number of factors — from good weather to a confluence of American and Canadian holidays — they were a sign that the heart of the Adirondacks is suffering from what might be called environmental cardiac trouble.
“The growth, especially during the past three to five years, has so far outstripped the planning,” said Joe Pete Wilson Jr., supervisor of the nearby town of Keene.
Crowd control has been an issue for several years as a combination of state advertising campaigns, social media and a surging interest in adventure sports has drawn unprecedented numbers of hikers to High Peaks trails.
According to state Department of Environmental Conservation records of people who sign in at trailhead registers, 34,847 hikers were on Cascade Mountain in 2017 compared to 14,737 in 2007. At the Adirondac Loj, the number of visitors jumped from 39,825 to 56,961 over the same 10-year period. Other popular spots saw similar increases. Volunteer trailhead stewards from the Adirondack 46ers Club have seen the same trends.
People almost had to wait in line at one point to sign the trail register at Cascade, a short, quick hike that’s popular with anyone wanting to climb one of the 46 Adirondack peaks above 4,000 feet.
None of that seemed to matter to the hikers who kept coming all day Saturday. They were intent on entering the woods despite the crowds. Nobody was upset by the need to hunt for a parking spot.
Near the trailhead to Giant Mountain, another popular peak just south of Keene Valley, Forest Ranger Megan McCone was waving people away from the shoulder of Route 73, the narrow, winding road that connects Interstate 87 and Lake Placid.
“Both lots were full at 6 a.m.,” McCone said, referring to the nearby parking areas. “We’ve been here all morning deterring them from parking along the side of the road.”
Across the street and near the entrance to the private, exclusive Ausable Club, hired hands were stationed to ensure that people didn’t veer from a small public lot into the club’s access road. Hikers could, however, use the club’s foot trail easement to access another set of popular peaks.
In places without No Parking signs, cars were bumper to bumper on both shoulders, slowing passing motorists to a crawl and backing up traffic. A state trooper farther up the road had pulled over a bright-green vintage Porsche on a tiny spot off the pavement.
“I don’t know where we’ll go,” said Marrianne Verreault of Montreal, who with a friend had planned to tackle Giant Mountain, but was shooed away from an illegal parking spot along the road. They figured they could find a spot somewhere else and take an alternate hike.
“We wanted to park at the Giant lot, but it was full,” said Sandra Leduc Thibault, who with her friend John Phillippe Claude planned to backpack into the woods and stay overnight. She was a few miles away at a parking lot near Marcy Field, a grass airstrip just outside Keene. With Montreal about two hours away, the area has long been popular with Canadian visitors. And the Columbus Day weekend coincides with Canada’s equivalent of Thanksgiving weekend.
Volunteer stewards at Marcy Field were helping with a shuttle bus that the town of Keene operates to drive hikers a few miles to The Garden, another perpetually full parking lot that leads to the John’s Brook Trail, which accesses a number of mountain trails. Essex County also ran a shuttle between Lake Placid and Wilmington, where Whiteface ski center is located.
“We’ve got food, water and flashlights,” said Magali Serrano of New Brunswick, N.J. Along with three friends, Serrano had driven up from New Jersey the previous night — but got stuck in the mud going to their rented cabin in Oswegatchie, which turned out to be two hours away.
They were among the scores of hikers who at midday formed a procession up the Adirondack Loj road, parking in spots where there were no obvious prohibitions or where someone had just pulled out. It was a half-hour hike just to reach the trails from some spots; several people were hitchhiking.
Maybe it was the cloudless weather, but no one was complaining about the crowds.
“People on the trail really don’t seem to mind,” said Scott van Laer, a state forest ranger who is also a representative for his union. He has been outspoken about the need for more rangers, especially to help patrol the backcountry and rescue hikers who get lost or injured.
Indeed, those who look after the woods and roads say the heavy use of the High Peaks area has hit a tipping point, and something needs to be done. Precisely what that might be depends on who you talk to.
“It’s a good problem to have, but it is taking its toll ecologically,” said John Sheehan, spokesman for the Adirondack Council. Erosion of the trails is a problem as are sanitation issues, with reports of human waste and toilet paper being seen along some trails.
“The highest-use levels go beyond what I think is sustainable,” said Neil Woodworth, executive director of the Adirondack Mountain Club.
Woodworth and others have also observed a change in the nature of hikers. Thanks in part to meet-ups facilitated by social media, there are more groups of people. And the adventure-sport craze has brought in people who view the mountains as an athletic challenge rather than a wilderness experience, with people competing to see how many peaks they can summit in a day.
On the other hand, some visitors see the peaks as a party spot — there have been reports of hikers lugging beer kegs to the mountaintops.
There also are more worries about inexperienced or poorly prepared hikers.
The 46er stewards on Columbus Day weekend had set up a table at the entrance to Cascade trail. People could look at a map or photograph it with their phones. Volunteers also handed out trash and dog waste bags, urging visitors to carry out their garbage.
“You want to stay together as a group,” a volunteer told a family of five — parents and three pre-teens, all in sneakers — as they entered the Cascade Mountain trail. Earlier in the day, they had seen a child with flip-flops, a not uncommon occurrence despite the rocky, muddy trail.
While they can’t keep people off the trail, the volunteers advise them to bring water, a jacket and other essentials. And they urge them to stay on the trail to prevent further erosion.
“Cascade gets the inexperienced hikers,” said Fran Shumway, a 46er volunteer steward organizer.
Cars line the shoulder along Route 73 in the Adirondacks High Peaks region.
By midday at Cascade, people were coming in waves. The stewards would issue some gentle warnings about the trail’s steepness. Roughly a third of hikers turn around before completing the 2.5-mile trek to the top, they estimate. Someone had left a debit card near the wooden hutch where people are supposed to sign in before ascending the trail.
All of this has revived discussions about whether there should be a permit system to limit the number of people entering a trail on any given day.
The idea was discussed in the early 1970s as the current land-use plans for the Adirondack Forest Preserve were being developed. Permits are required at some popular National Park locations such as Half Dome in Yosemite Park and Mount Whitney, both in California.
One way to do that, said Sheehan, could be through parking permits. That way if someone didn’t get a parking permit, they might not come to the area in the first place. Charging for permits could be problematic, though, since the park is public land.
The idea of permits, though, may not go over with local business owners who depend on visitors for their livelihood.
Wilson, the Keene supervisor, believes one answer could be more parking lots in some of the unused spots along Route 73, such as its intersection with Route 9 just south of town.
Another approach, currently used by the state Department of Environmental Conservation, calls for promoting alternate hiking routes on trails or lesser-known mountains. Some of them may be a bit smaller than Mount Marcy or Cascade, but can still provide an enjoyable day outdoors — while beating the crowds.
All of the proposals to alleviate or ease the crowding face challenges and complications.
A permit system would be politically contentious and unpopular for many visitors and locals. Bigger parking lots would butt up against the “forever wild” restrictions on clearing trees, requiring lengthy review and possibly waivers — all likely sources of contention. Steering people to other spots is difficult, especially given the social media attention lavished on the High Peaks. Facebook and Instagram are hard to compete with.
For, now Adirondackers will continue to plan for the busy weekends as the season winds down.
Wilson and other Keene Town Board members helped direct traffic and ensure the shuttle bus was running smoothly. There’s effort and expense involved, but they don’t feel like they can wait for policymakers to devise a permanent solution.
That’s why the town took the initiative this season and rented $10,000 worth of portable toilets near parking lots.
“That’s a boring but essential part of this,” Wilson said.
rkarlin@timesunion.com (518) 454-5758 @RickKarlinTU